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The greatest homogeneous
baroque site of the world. A town village from
the 1700s in the 21st-century. Anachronistic
considerations aside, the old Vila Rica was the
stage for vanity, haughtiness, competition and
human ingenuity. Emotions that are our very
contemporaries today, but at that time were
translated with style, with pride. Art was the
result of years of patience and the utmost
self-dedication.
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All the gold of the world
is useless if one can not show it off.
This was not different in Vila Rica. Faith
was one of the escape valves for
accumulated power by sectors of the emergent
Minas Gerais' society of the 18th century.
Powerful and secular religious Orders
portrayed the segmentation of the population.
The Order of the powerful people, of the
blacks, of the mulattos... Each one had as
a purpose to build the most beautiful
church, to demonstrate its power and influence.
A kind of non-declared competition was
initiated, of which gold was the fuel, and
it spilled on altars, images and other
liturgical pieces. Minas Gerais was living
a Renaissance-type era, where there were
patrons, the arts flourished and geniuses
were born.
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In the ups and downs of roofs,
the narrow confusion of side-to-side housing.
The palaces, the bridges and the fountains...
European baroque arrived here and adapted itself.
Geography conferred uniqueness to Minas Gerais'
Baroque. The mountains transformed the spirit and
gave birth to the singularity of creativity.
Looking around at everything that was constructed
makes it possible to imagine the incessant noise
of the working tools, churches raising to the
sky, miles of tunnels hiding forbidden whispers;
this is what fascinates in Ouro Preto.
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Stories are many and delicious.
Masters such as Ataíde, Xavier de Brito,
Servas and many others circulating by the
streets, when they were not closed inside
the temples, in the hard works of their
art. The best known of them was Antônio
Francisco Lisboa, eternally known as
Aleijadinho (little crippled one), a
mulatto genius suffering of a terrible
deforming illness. Aleijadinho synthesizes
the bankruptcy of the concept of good and
evil. He was the ugly one who produced
beauty, the monster who produced angels...
Ouro Preto is just like that: interested
faith, heroes inconfidentes. Those who
visit the town must realize that it plays
with childish references, it abuses of the
contraries as well as it melts them.
In the cultural efervescence of the 18th century
there was also room for poets, music and, as always, politics.
The forbidden love between Tomás Antonio Gonzaga and his
eternal Marília. He, a nobleman and secret revolutionary
inconfidente; she, once a nearby companion, now a distant
forbidden sweetheart. Both in passionate love with each
other. "Cartas Chilenas" (Chilean letters) are attributed to
him, an anonymous and disguised publication mocking the
autocratic misdeeds of the former governor Cunha Menezes,
referred to ironically in the pamphlets as a buffon. The
mythological Chico Rei King, a one-time monarch in Africa,
brought as a slave to Minas Gerais. He worked in the mines,
eventually buying back his own freedom and of his former
subjects. He ordered his own church temple built and died
respectfully. In old Vila Rica gold was the only measure
of value, no matter whom it belonged to. In Ouro Preto of
today the walls seem to speak up, they sing their verses,
suffocate their pain. They disclose much more than their
visible and apparent architecture.
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