Apoio:

Associação Comercial, Industrial de Agropecuária de Ouro Preto







Cartões Visa

Secretaria de Estado de Turismo de Minas Gerais







Fundação de Arte de Ouro Preto







 

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Fotomontagem: vista da igreja do Pilar (centro), mina Fonte Meu Bem Querer (esquerda), imagem de São Francisco (centro-direita), cruz da Capela Padre Faria (direita)
Fotomontagem: vista da igreja do Pilar (centro), mina Fonte Meu Bem Querer (esquerda), imagem de São Francisco (centro-direita), cruz da Capela Padre Faria (direita)

Black Seeds

It is not known for sure who discovered the first gold nugget. It was some day between 1693 and 1698. Probably the expedition had Duarte Lopes in command. In that long-gone era, the so-called bandeirantes adventurers forced their wild way up and down the mountains of Minas Gerais' territory in search of the uncertain mountain range of Sabarabuçu that paved tales of native indians. They were tough men, forged by adversities, but they also did not lose sensitivity to recognize beauty. So be it, that our anonymous discoverer was certainly curious by those intriguing small dark little rocks his hands came across, while reaching down to the Tripuí creek riverbed (Tupi indian language for speedy water). Black gold, eclipsing a sun of the purer carat, covered by a thin layer of iron oxide.

The Tripuí Creek, site of the first black gold nuggets findings

Chapel of Saint John, first temple of Ouro Preto (1698)

 

A sample of those little black nuggets got its way to Rio de Janeiro, under the eyes of the governor, who had already previously received similar ones from the mines of Itaverava. As soon as its value was realized the gold rush began. Tales populated the imagination of adventurers, who introduced themselves up and down through the forests and the wild, in search of a geographical point of reference that would lead to the glory, a so-called peak Ita-corumi (the stone-rock boy in Tupi language), now Itacolomi. Resting down on its foot were the most dreamed-of and sought-for gold mines.

The bandeira expedition led by Antonio Dias was the first to reach the site, in 1698. The establishment of a primitive settlement took place in the heights of São João mountain, where it was also celebrated the first catholic mass by priest João de Faria Fialho, one of the fellow travellers. A relatively small group, that was later on to be multiplied by the thousands. Thirty years later, the place was to boast near 40 thousand people, the biggest agglomeration of all Latin America. Forty thousand different interests... And gold, although plenty and abundant, was certainly not enough to satiate ambition. Confrontations soon began.

Between 1707 and 1709, the first big conflict took place, essentially involving the paulistas (the original settlers from São Paulo) and the newcoming Portuguese and others: the War of the Emboabas. Both groups claimed legitimate rights on the Eldorado, demanding land and mining concessions from the distant metropolis rulers. Still in 1709, the Capitania Territory of São Paulo and Gold Mines was established, Mariana being its first village capital. Two years later, the primitive settlements of Ouro Preto, Antonio Dias, Ouro Podre and Padre Faria were administratively united and raised to the category of Village bearing the name of Vila Rica de Albuquerque.

While in the maritime coast the brazilian colonial society remained plastered in a closed structure, in Minas Gerais' territory a social chaos had been born and it moved vividly . Ambition was the locomotive, gold was the fuel. Social ascension, albeit difficult, was possible: a lucky gold search and some astuteness was enough. Merchants, craftsmen, engineers, lawyers, clergy, noblemen, doctors, poets, servants... Eclecticism was firming itself, generating a new conscience, a libertine spirit, capable of walking with its own feet. It was not an easy task. Say it Felipe dos Santos and the revolutionary inconfidentes (see "Dream of Liberty").

Minas Gerais was growing fast and in 1720 became an independent capitania territory, and the capital was transferred to Vila Rica. Gold was being found as nowhere else, turning King Solomon's stories of splendor into unpretentious fairy tales. Marking this era, a magnificent festival was held in 1733 to celebrate the transfer of the Holiest Sacrament from the church of Rosário to the main mother church of Pilar. Chronicle writers of the time narrate the pomp of the clothing and fashionable wearing by the paraders, decorated with gold and precious stones.

  Ponte Antonio Dias bridge (also known as Marilia de Dirceu) Ponte dos Contos bridge (1755)
Bom Despacho Worshipping Corner Housing row and street pavement decorated for the Holy Week
Chafariz Marilia de Dirceu fountain

Splendor lasted up to 1750. From then on, the yellow metal became ever more scarse. The Portuguese Crown intensified fiscal procedures, fighting smuggling that ran high and forcing miners to guarantee previously established tax quotas. The ever-growing oppression eventually led to the Inconfidência Mineira revolutionary plot, which was overwhelmingly suffocated by Portugal. Minas Gerais and Brazil would never be the same.

Vila Rica turned to be the Imperial Cidade de Ouro Preto in 1823, immediately following Brazil's independence in 1822, and remained as capital of Minas Gerais Province until 1897, when the current capital Belo Horizonte was chartered. The 18th-century years are gone for ever, but they endowed a future legacy that today turned up as a gift representing one of the most interesting histories of the human Saga.

Vila Rica (beginning of 19th century) water painting by Thomas Ender


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